Borders and mayhem!!

Finally crossed into Kyrgystan after two borders and a thankfully brief dash through Kazakhstan.  We spent an eventful night camped on the concrete pasture of no mans land between the two countries due to the Kazakhstan border being shut.  It's not very often you get a chance to do that!!  I think the truckers and border guards were a bit bemused to see a load of tents go up but needs must.  I also managed to jog to the barrier and back to establish a run in no mans land, something I'll never do again.  Kazakstan is one country I would never visit again.  The police seemed to stop us evry few miles in the hope of making a quick buck which they managed successfully.  The locals seem to be very disheartened and in complete contrast to the Uzbeks and I felt an underlying feeling of anger.  I also did not see Borat so highly disapointed with that!
Anyway onwards and upwards literally to the mountains in Krygystan and some decent trekking.  Bring it on!!

Tashkent

Currently in Tashkent, capital city of Uzbekistan.  Uzbekisatn has been a fantastic country.  The people seem very content with their lives, despite their sometimes harsh lives,and are extremely friendly to us scruffy overlanders.  Everyone wants to know where we are from and what we are doing.  Every fountain, of which there are numerous in each city centre, has young children playing in it and having a great time.  The countryside in the main is flat along with patchs of desert, although a well laid out irrigation system makes most of the land fertile. The history is quite hard to take in purely because there is so much of it and it's hard to comprehend the time scale of events.
Going to explore Tashkent later and have a mooch around and as always on this trip the weather is great!!

Silk Road cities

Visited the three main silk road cities in Uzbekistam.  All three are completely different.  Khiva is very small with most ot the city comtained within the city walls.  Fascinating buildings all restored to their former glory.  It looks similar to a childs samdcastle with most of the buildings being made of samd coloured mud.  Lots of minarets amd madrasses to explore.  Bukhara was more touristy but had am excellemt square with fountains and cafes all roumd.  The vodka monster attacked me here and I was led astray by my room mate hemce my sightseeing was somewhat curtailled.  Samarkand was my favourite with magnificent restored buildings.  All very ornate and you can almost feel the history as you stroll around.  They talk a lot about some guy called Ghengis Khan around here.  Haven't met him yet but I'm sure I will do! Hopefully I will post some pictures to follow of the cities.
It's 45 % inflation here in Uzbekistan so if you need to buy something it's best to buy it in the morning!  It's also between 35-45 degrees so a bit warm for us pasty westerners.

Caspian Sea and beyond

Finally caught the ferry across the Caspian Sea on Thursday morning. We were woken by Taylor at 05.00 after a sleepless night camping out in the hotel grounds without a tent. Bit of a mistake that one as I ended up covered in midge bites, very attractive! I always like to look my best. It’s hard to describe the ferry in favourable terms, suffice to say I won’t be booking a long distance cruise on board. But it did the job and 38 hours later we crossed the oil slick of a sea and arrived in Turkmenistan. Best part of the ferry was sleeping on the deck overnight and the impromptu cocktail party hosted by Dennis. We know how to live. We cleared the port at 03.00 and drove a few miles to camp out in the desert for a couple of hours. Slightly more sand than Cleethorpes but no donkeys just camels. Next day a long drive saw us arrive at the capital of Turkmenistan, Ashkabat, and a very nice 5 star hotel. Ashkabet is one of the most surreal places I have ever seen. The buildings are magnificent, everything is relatively new due to an earthquake destroying the city in 1948. But it feels like you are on location on a film set. There are tremendous parks and gardens, more monuments and status than you could ever imagine, but no locals to enjoy it. I saw just a handful of local people on the streets other than at the market. Very strange. It’s like people are still afraid to come outdoors and enjoy their lives. None the less it’s a great and fascinating city. There’s also junior policemen on every street corner, most looking about 15 years old and that’s not just because I’m getting older, it’s true! As a tourist you’re hotel room may be bugged so I’ve had to whisper and only say good things! Oh and a 23.00 hours curfew which we only just made on the second night due to Roberta getting us lost! Sorry Roberta, I may have assisted in a small way.




We left the city after two nights and camped again in the desert near to a famous gas crater. Turkmenistan is covered in 80% desert so you can imagine it’s pretty hot. The gas crater was an amazing sight in the moonlight. Absolutley massive it has been burning constantly since 1970. Next day saw an interesting border crossing to enter Uzbekistan. The officials ( I use that term loosely) took exception to one of our groups medication and she was threatened with jail as was Maggs who tried to step in and explain. After a lot of paper shuffling and sighing she was released back to us with a story to tell, which we may hear several times, and we were allowed on our way. I enjoyed Turkmenistan, a great if somewhat strange country with very friendly people. Bit sandy though in places!



Currently in Khiva after two nights bush camping. The 38+ temperatures have got to me and I spent a poorly night at the first bush camp but fine again after a day or so. It’s affecting most of us in some form or other. Khiva is one of the old silk road cities and as such is absolutely fascinating. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to believe I have this opportunity to see all these differnrt places and cultures. We are now getting so far removed from life in England it feels like we travelled a million miles. The money exchange here is cool, black market and you get tons ( literally) of notes for your dollar. 

Baku

Still in Baku awaiting a ferry across the Caspian.  I'm concerned about my tent mate Maggs who seems to be developing a new addiction on a daily basis.  The list at the moment consists of the internet, shopping for T-shirts ( I may have encouraged this one) and ice tea.  We're trying to wean her off them all slowly but it's gonna take time!!  Might leave the t-shirts tho if I can persuade her to buy them in my size!

Baku has dozens of top designer shops with top designer prices to match.  I have bought a couple of t-shirts and kids if you are reading this apologies 'cos I have bought another camper van t-shirt.  I didn't think the 20 I have at home would be enough!  Laura, don't tell Lou, she'll tell me off.  Even worse I have had a doner kebab, but needs must.