Caspian Sea and beyond

Finally caught the ferry across the Caspian Sea on Thursday morning. We were woken by Taylor at 05.00 after a sleepless night camping out in the hotel grounds without a tent. Bit of a mistake that one as I ended up covered in midge bites, very attractive! I always like to look my best. It’s hard to describe the ferry in favourable terms, suffice to say I won’t be booking a long distance cruise on board. But it did the job and 38 hours later we crossed the oil slick of a sea and arrived in Turkmenistan. Best part of the ferry was sleeping on the deck overnight and the impromptu cocktail party hosted by Dennis. We know how to live. We cleared the port at 03.00 and drove a few miles to camp out in the desert for a couple of hours. Slightly more sand than Cleethorpes but no donkeys just camels. Next day a long drive saw us arrive at the capital of Turkmenistan, Ashkabat, and a very nice 5 star hotel. Ashkabet is one of the most surreal places I have ever seen. The buildings are magnificent, everything is relatively new due to an earthquake destroying the city in 1948. But it feels like you are on location on a film set. There are tremendous parks and gardens, more monuments and status than you could ever imagine, but no locals to enjoy it. I saw just a handful of local people on the streets other than at the market. Very strange. It’s like people are still afraid to come outdoors and enjoy their lives. None the less it’s a great and fascinating city. There’s also junior policemen on every street corner, most looking about 15 years old and that’s not just because I’m getting older, it’s true! As a tourist you’re hotel room may be bugged so I’ve had to whisper and only say good things! Oh and a 23.00 hours curfew which we only just made on the second night due to Roberta getting us lost! Sorry Roberta, I may have assisted in a small way.




We left the city after two nights and camped again in the desert near to a famous gas crater. Turkmenistan is covered in 80% desert so you can imagine it’s pretty hot. The gas crater was an amazing sight in the moonlight. Absolutley massive it has been burning constantly since 1970. Next day saw an interesting border crossing to enter Uzbekistan. The officials ( I use that term loosely) took exception to one of our groups medication and she was threatened with jail as was Maggs who tried to step in and explain. After a lot of paper shuffling and sighing she was released back to us with a story to tell, which we may hear several times, and we were allowed on our way. I enjoyed Turkmenistan, a great if somewhat strange country with very friendly people. Bit sandy though in places!



Currently in Khiva after two nights bush camping. The 38+ temperatures have got to me and I spent a poorly night at the first bush camp but fine again after a day or so. It’s affecting most of us in some form or other. Khiva is one of the old silk road cities and as such is absolutely fascinating. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to believe I have this opportunity to see all these differnrt places and cultures. We are now getting so far removed from life in England it feels like we travelled a million miles. The money exchange here is cool, black market and you get tons ( literally) of notes for your dollar.